Lake Orta: what it is and why it’s worth a weekend (or three)

Lake Orta is a pre-Alpine lake located in Piedmont, in the province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, not far from Lake Maggiore. It is considered one of the most romantic and least crowded lakes in Italy: roughly 13 km long, it is dominated by the medieval village of Orta San Giulio and the Island of San Giulio, a historical and spiritual landmark home to its Romanesque Basilica. The hillside villages of Miasino, Ameno and Legro frame it with trails, mural art, botanical gardens and silence — the kind of silence that is no longer easy to find. A place that doesn’t shout “visit me”, but whispers. And a whisper is much harder to ignore.

An unforgettable experience at the B&B Seme di Faggio

Friends, I really have to tell you: I spent three days at Lake Orta with my daughter and I still can’t believe it. We arrive in Miasino, a medieval village that looks like it stepped out of a postcard from another era. The moment we set foot at B&B Seme di Faggio, we are welcomed by Sara — a woman full of life whose smile shines brighter than the sun. The wooden door looks borrowed from Game of Thrones. Our room? A cosy refuge, all wood that smells of forest and calm, with details as carefully chosen as little acts of affection.

Day 1 — Miasino: village, church and a dream dinner

First exploration of the village

We unpack and head out to explore. Strolling through the narrow lanes of Miasino, we come across the Church of San Rocco, the Giardino dei Semplici — around 100 species of medicinal and aromatic herbs tended by Albert Husband, a place that smells of woodland and wisdom — and the stately Villa Nigra, in whose grounds we find exactly what we were looking for: a place to have dinner.

Dinner at Taverna dell’Antico Agnello

Taverna dell’Antico Agnello — sorted. I have no words: fassona beef tartare that melts in your mouth like snow in the sun, maltagliati pasta with rabbit ragù that wraps around your palate like a warm embrace, and desserts that take your mind all the way back to childhood. The kind of food you dream about at night — and that’s not a metaphor.

Day 2 — Trails, murals and mystical gelato

A royal breakfast

The day begins with a breakfast prepared by Sara: chestnut honey as thick as a mountain tale, fresh cheeses that sing stories of green meadows, and freshly baked bread that welcomes you with its enveloping scent. A manifesto of slowness and taste. A hymn to the land. We are ready for the hike — and honestly, a little sorry to have to stop eating.

The Panorama Trail toward Legro

The Panorama Trail — the one Sara used to walk as a girl to go to the pub with friends — is an experience in itself. The landscape leaves you breathless, you smile without even realising it. Each step paints a natural picture that enters your eyes and never leaves.

Legro: the painted village

Arriving in Legro, the murals capture us immediately. The paintings are open windows onto different dreams: scenes of everyday life, tributes to cinema and literature. My daughter, who devours books like snacks, is enchanted. And I think about how art can transform a place, bring it back to life. It feels as though every brushstroke is an act of rebellion against sameness.

Legro is part of the Blue Ring of Ameno — those who want to see more murals and still have legs to spare can extend the route toward Orta San Giulio and Miasino. We highly recommend it, with or without imaginary zombies in tow.

(Video about Legro’s murals — straightforward and thorough, showing many paintings we didn’t manage to see)

Orta San Giulio and the mystical ice-cream break

We make our way back toward Orta San Giulio. Once there, we treat ourselves to a lunch break under the portico by the lakeside. The atmosphere is so magical that I half-expect a unicorn to emerge from a bush — instead, we find a gelato from Laboratorio Cannavacciuolo that is nothing short of a mystical experience. An explosion of flavours that reminds me that pleasure is a right, not a luxury.

We stroll through the streets of Orta San Giulio up to the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The Baroque architecture is a dance of light and shadow. The past whispers secrets. It is like walking through a history book with full-colour illustrations — an experience that forces you to reflect on how small we are before the majesty of time.

For those who want to learn more about the village’s history, the official Orta San Giulio page on the Distretto dei Laghi website is an authoritative reference.

Palazzo Penotti Ubertini and dinner at the pub

We end the day with a visit to Palazzo Penotti Ubertini: Sergio Cerini’s exhibition leaves us speechless. His works are like a punch to the stomach and a caress at the same time. Learning that the palazzo hosts temporary exhibitions throughout the year makes us realise how vibrant the cultural scene here truly is.

For dinner, we head back to the pub Il Cantuccio: a pinsa and a Novara-style burger made with local, zero-kilometre ingredients. The perfect ending to a day full of emotions — and steps.

Day 3 — The Island of San Giulio and the silence that stays

The last breakfast (the one you never forget)

The final breakfast at the B&B is a canvas of goodness and warmth that reflects Sara’s generous spirit: fresh brioches that smell of something wonderful, rye bread with figs that brings back ancient flavours, sweet focaccia with raisins and heart-shaped biscuits that make you feel as cherished as at your grandmother’s — a feeling that in the age of fast food and virtual relationships is a rare luxury.

Boat trip to San Giulio Island

We return to Orta, where we take a boat to the Island of San Giulio — a place that is the very essence of peace and beauty. The Basilica of San Giulio is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, a monument that summons a distant but still living past. The Path of Silence and Meditation invites reflection: a moment of pause in a world that is always pushing us to run. Walking through the island, we feel the history and spirituality that permeate every stone, every corner.

We have lunch at a historic lakeside café — light and fresh dishes, spectacular views. The final hours are spent in relaxation, reflecting on these three magical days.

A conclusion is in order…

These three days at Lake Orta have been an experience beyond words, a journey that touched deep chords of the soul. B&B Seme di Faggio and Sara’s warm hospitality made us feel at home. A home away from home, offering shelter and inspiration.

The natural beauty, the picturesque villages and the rich history of this region won us over — but above all, it was the feeling of living an authentic adventure, far from the most well-trodden tourist routes.

Those who want to explore beyond Orta San Giulio can discover the Quadrifoglio trails of Ameno, Rodari’s Fantasy Park in Omegna, or spend an afternoon among the medicinal herbs of Miasino’s Giardino dei Semplici. Lake Orta never truly ends — and perhaps that is exactly why people keep coming back.

Book your stay and return sooner than you think

And now, friends, after feasting your eyes on so much beauty, why not treat the rest of your senses too?

Extend the magic of this unique experience at B&B Seme di Faggio. A place where attention to detail and care for guests will make you feel at home, away from home.

👉 Book your stay now and get ready to live new adventures with the curiosity and wonder of a child. Some places deserve a second visit — and Lake Orta is one of them

FAQ — Frequently asked questions about Lake Orta and the itinerary

What to see at Lake Orta in 3 days? In three days at Lake Orta you can visit the medieval village of Orta San Giulio with the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, the Island of San Giulio with its Romanesque Basilica and Path of Silence, the murals of Legro, the Giardino dei Semplici in Miasino and the Quadrifoglio trails of Ameno. For those staying in Miasino, the Panorama Trail is the natural starting point for many of these experiences.

Where is Lake Orta and how do you get there? Lake Orta is located in Piedmont, in the province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola. It can be reached by car from the A26 motorway (Borgomanero exit) in around 20 minutes, or from Milan in approximately one and a half hours. The nearest railway station is Orta-Miasino, on the Novara–Domodossola line.

How long is the boat trip to the Island of San Giulio? The boat crossing from Orta San Giulio to the Island of San Giulio takes just a few minutes. Boats run regularly during the tourist season. On the island, it is recommended to set aside at least an hour for visiting the Basilica of San Giulio and the Path of Silence and Meditation.

What is the Path of Silence on the Island of San Giulio? The Path of Silence and Meditation is a circular walk that runs around the entire perimeter of the Island of San Giulio on Lake Orta. Along the way, signs bearing quotes invite reflection and contemplation. It is one of the most evocative and spiritually intense spots on the whole of Lake Orta.

Where to eat in Miasino and Orta San Giulio? In Miasino, Taverna dell’Antico Agnello is one of the most appreciated destinations for local cuisine — the fassona tartare and maltagliati with rabbit ragù stand out above all. In Orta San Giulio, the pub Il Cantuccio offers pinsa and a Novara-style burger with zero-kilometre ingredients. For an exceptional gelato, Laboratorio Cannavacciuolo in Orta San Giulio is simply unmissable.

What is the Giardino dei Semplici in Miasino? The Giardino dei Semplici in Miasino is a botanical garden dedicated to medicinal and aromatic herbs, with around 100 species. Tended by Albert Husband, it is located in the centre of the village of Miasino and can be visited during spring and summer. It is one of the most unexpected and restorative stops on the entire Lake Orta itinerary.