The Pale Blue Ring of Ameno: what it is and where to find it

The Pale Blue Ring of Ameno is a loop hiking trail in the municipality of Ameno, Piedmont, on Lake Orta. It is part of the Quadrifoglio di Ameno — the system of four colour-coded routes exploring the lake’s hinterland through woods, historic villages, churches and panoramic views. The Celeste Ring is the most culturally rich of the four: it takes in the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate in Vacciago, the village of Lortallo with its double Via Crucis, Monte Mesma with its Franciscan convent, the Roman bridge of Membra and the historic churches of Ameno. Art, mystery and one too many legends to remain indifferent.

Before setting off: strategic breakfast (light version)

Good morning everyone! Today I’m taking you to discover an enchanted corner of the Lake Orta area: the Pale Blue of the Clover Trails of Ameno.

First, though, a word of advice: tackling this route on a full stomach is like trying to read a book on quantum physics after a midsummer barbecue. Light breakfast, then — yogurt and fruit — and ready for the adventure. Anyone who has already experienced the generous breakfast at B&B Seme di Faggio will know exactly what I mean: that version is reserved for recovery days, not climbing days.

Boots laced, small backpack on, Seme di Faggio behind me, I head towards Piazza Marconi in Ameno, the starting point. With its historic charm, it’s the perfect beginning for an adventure through breathtaking landscapes and thousand-year-old stories. We follow the red and white waymarkers — and off we go.

Let’s follow the arrows with the white and red signs and discover every corner of this itinerary.

Technical trail info

For those who prefer data before stories — no judgement:

• Distance: approximately 12 km
• Difficulty: moderate (E — hiking grade)
• Elevation gain: approximately 450 m
• Estimated time: 4–5 hours (cultural stops and mystery contemplation not included)
• Starting point: Piazza Marconi, Ameno
• Main stops: Ameno → Vacciago → Lortallo → Monte Mesma → Agogna → Ameno
• Suitable for: walkers with basic experience, art and history enthusiasts
• Map and info: amenoturismo.it

First stop: Vacciago and the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate

The first section of the route leads to Vacciago, where we stop at the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate. This place is not just a site of worship — it’s a small museum in disguise. The Bonola frescoes are spectacular, and there’s one detail worth mentioning: one of them depicts a figure holding an open book covered in alchemical symbols, with a fantastical creature at the feet of the saint that no one has ever managed to identify. A sort of Piedmontese Loch Ness monster with vaguely Lombard features. A genuine post-Renaissance enigma.

But Vacciago has another hidden gem: the Fondazione Calderara. This contemporary art space, nestled inside a historic village, is like finding a Picasso in your grandmother’s cellar. A fascinating contrast that deserves a proper stop — a long one, if time allows.

Those wishing to explore further, Vacciago is also where the Blue Ring of Ameno crosses the path: the two routes share an initial stretch — the Quadrifoglio’s elegant way of keeping everything connected without any ring feeling like a third wheel.

Through Lortallo: the double Via Crucis

Continuing past Vacciago, the path reaches the hamlet of Lortallo and the double Via Crucis. The frescoed chapels along the trail are a blend of devotion and folk art, telling stories that are not only religious but also deeply everyday. Walking this stretch is like leafing through a family photo album — but without the relatives you can’t stand.

Monte Mesma: nature, silence and mysterious lights

The climb leads to Monte Mesma and its Franciscan convent. From here, the view over Lake Orta and Monte Rosa is breathtaking in the most literal sense — partly because of the altitude, it must be said. But what makes this place even more intriguing are the stories told by the friars about the “angel lights” that appear above the lake on clear nights. Mystery or natural phenomenon? Nobody knows. The convent doesn’t comment, and we respect the silence.

For those wishing to place the phenomenon in a wider context, the Natural Reserve of Monte Mesma is documented among Piedmont’s areas of naturalistic interest.

Ancient curiosities: the forge and the Roman bridge

Further along, the path reaches the Agogna stream and the remains of an ancient forge. A bit like discovering Iron Man’s old factory, but with considerably less titanium and considerably more history. Shortly after, the Roman bridge of Membra is a feat of engineering that seems suspended in time, telling stories of daily life from centuries past with the quiet patience of someone who knows that time is on their side — like Piero Angela in an episode of Superquark, but without the microphone.

Return to Ameno: bells and stubborn clocks

Heading back towards Ameno, we stop at the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The Romanesque bell tower is imposing, and the sound of its bells carries for kilometres. The acoustics are so remarkable that a guitar solo could echo all the way to Milan. Not to be missed: the ancient mechanical clock, which has been running perfectly for centuries. Not quite like the timer on my oven.

San Giovanni Battista: the seventeenth-century selfie

Before wrapping up the route, we visit the Church of San Giovanni Battista, one of the finest on Lake Orta. Inside, a canvas depicts the Council of Trent — and there’s a curious detail: one of the figures seems to stare back at you with an enigmatic expression. It is said to be a hidden self-portrait of the artist. A seventeenth-century selfie, with considerably more class than anything circulating on social media today.

Why this trail is different from the others

The Celeste Ring is not just a walk in nature. It’s a route that weaves together sacred art, archaeology, mystery and landscape so naturally that you reach the end without realising you’ve absorbed centuries of history along the way. If the Turquoise Ring is the relaxed version of the Quadrifoglio and the Blue Ring is the scenic one, the Celeste Ring is the one that sends you home with something extra — not just in the muscles.

Back to Seme di Faggio

The Celeste Ring journey comes to an end — but it was never just a walk. It was a genuine voyage through art, history and mystery. With a lighter heart and a lighter backpack, I head back to B&B Seme di Faggio, where the next adventure is already waiting on the bedside table.

And if you’d like to live an experience like this yourself? Don’t wait.

👉 BOOK your stay at B&B Seme di Faggio and set off to discover the wonders of Lake Orta.

📽 Watch the trail video — it’s worth more than a thousand words (and more than a few waymarker signs too).

FAQ — Frequently asked questions about the Celeste Ring of Ameno

What is the Pale Blue Ring of Ameno? The Pale Blue Ring of Ameno is a loop hiking trail in the municipality of Ameno, on Lake Orta (Piedmont). It is part of the Quadrifoglio di Ameno and takes in the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate in Vacciago, the Fondazione Calderara, the double Via Crucis in Lortallo, the Franciscan convent of Monte Mesma and the historic churches of Ameno. It is the most culturally and historically rich route in the Quadrifoglio.

How long is the Pale Blue Ring and how long does it take? The Pale Blue Ring is approximately 12 km long with around 450 metres of elevation gain. The average walking time is 4–5 hours. It is rated moderate difficulty (E — hiking grade) and requires a basic level of physical fitness, more so than the Turquoise Ring.

Where does the Pale Blue Ring of Ameno start? The starting point is Piazza Marconi, in front of Ameno Town Hall. It is reachable on foot from B&B Seme di Faggio (less than 2 km) or by car. The trail is marked with red and white waymarker signs.

What can you see along the Pale Blue Ring? The route takes in the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate with its Bonola frescoes, the Fondazione Calderara contemporary art space, the double Via Crucis in Lortallo, the Franciscan convent of Monte Mesma with views over Lake Orta and Monte Rosa, the Roman bridge of Membra, the remains of a medieval forge, and the churches of Santa Maria Assunta and San Giovanni Battista in Ameno.

Is the Pale Blue Ring suitable for children or families? The Pale Blue Ring is rated moderate difficulty. Its length (approximately 12 km) and elevation gain (450 m) make it suitable for fit adults and older children, but it is not the most appropriate route for young children. Families with young children are advised to try the Turquoise Ring first — shorter and largely flat.

What is the Fondazione Calderara and why visit it? The Fondazione Calderara is a contemporary art space in Vacciago di Ameno, housed in a historic villa surrounded by greenery. It holds works by Antonio Calderara and international twentieth-century artists. It sits directly on the Pale Blue Ring route and is one of the trail’s most unexpected surprises — like finding a Picasso in your grandmother’s cellar.