I needed to switch off. Not in the “I’ll take a week-long detox and fly to Bali to find myself” kind of way, but more in the “let me breathe or the next email with ‘Dear Valued Customer’ in the subject line will push me over the edge” kind of way. So we loaded up the car — the two of us, a 6-year-old and a desperate need to do nothing with style — and left for Lake Orta, the smallest of the pre-Alpine Piedmontese lakes and, let’s be honest, the most underrated in Italy.
📍 What is Lake Orta?
It’s a glacial lake in northern Piedmont, spanning the provinces of Novara and Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, roughly 13 km long. Less famous than Lake Maggiore or Lake Como, which is precisely why it’s still authentic: medieval villages, quiet hiking trails, restaurants where you don’t need to book six months ahead. Perfect for a weekend getaway from Milan with or without children.
Stop 1: Borgomanero and the peace-giving veal with tuna sauce
Halfway between the office and actual relaxation, we stopped in Borgomanero — a town whose name alone conjures images of craftsmen and stone houses. We ended up at Trattoria del Ciclista, the kind of place where the wine list is handwritten and the waiter could easily be your uncle — the one who tops up your glass before you’ve even said yes. Vitello tonnato, agnolotti, done: we are officially on holiday.
Borgomanero is also the ideal entry point to the lake if you arrive by car from the A26 motorway — well worth a lunch stop before diving into Cusio tranquillity.
Orta? No thanks. Pella all the way.
We tried to swing by Orta San Giulio, but it was packed like an Articolo 31 reunion concert in their prime. No parking anywhere, flip-flops on every surface.
Sharp turn towards Pella: quieter, more genuine, and crucially home to a gelateria that saves your nerves and a playground that saves the parents.
📍Why choose Pella over Orta?
Pella is a small village on the Piedmontese shore of the lake, directly facing the Island of San Giulio. Same breathtaking view, without the crowds. Boat landing stage, peaceful waterfront, authentic atmosphere. It’s the open secret that locals know and influencers haven’t found yet. Long may it last.
Then a quick stop in Ameno (yes, that’s really its name), a village so charming you could play hide-and-seek in the streets and nobody would bat an eye.
Arrival at Seme di Faggio: silence, wood, and lofts for little explorers
Walking into Seme di Faggio feels a bit like taking off tight shoes after a full day on your feet. Cool, clean, silent room. A loft bed that for a child is the rustic version of an adventure park. And finally: no one knocking, no one replying “I’ll forward this to the relevant department”. Just wood, duvets and the genuine sensation that here, time has decided to take things slow.
📍 What is Seme di Faggio?
It’s a guest house in Miasino, in the heart of the Cusio area, just a few minutes from the lake. Run by Sara, it combines warm, personal hospitality with thoughtfully designed rooms: natural materials, real silence, generous breakfasts. The kind of place you look for when you want a proper night’s sleep without checking in at a glass-fronted reception desk. Check availability and book your stay.
Dinner with beer, then to Miasino, where the church steals the show
For dinner, we went to Il Cantuccio, which is technically a brewery but feels like a scene from Trading Places—if you swap the stock market for hops.
Afterward, a post-dinner stroll up to the Church of San Rocco in Miasino.
Spoiler: at night it’s so beautiful it makes you want to convert—just so you can go there every evening.
Trip with sandwiches, trails with QR codes, and kids tired (but Happy)
The next day we decided we needed proper nature — the kind where forgetting the insect repellent is a decision you deeply regret. In Ameno someone had the brilliant idea of putting QR codes in the village square to download the hiking routes. We, modern but cautious (😏), chose the Anello Azzurro di Ameno — a mellow 6 km loop: farmhouses, wildflowers, streams, horses giving you the side-eye and a local toma cheese that tastes like the forest floor (in the best possible way).
📍 What is the Anello Azzurro di Ameno?
It’s a circular hiking route of about 6 km, family-friendly and suitable for young children, winding through woods, meadows and old farmsteads between Ameno and the Cusio hills. Moderate terrain, mixed surface, well-marked trail. Download the GPX track from the QR code panels in the village or from the Municipality of Ameno website. Estimated time: 2–3 hours, sandwich break on a rock included.
Lunch on a boulder, feet in the stream, and a child who never once asked “Are we nearly there?”. Practically a miracle.
Wisteria, slides, and Omegna with a view
In the afternoon, we hit another playground (Miasino again), complete with blooming wisteria and brand-new equipment.
Then dinner with a friend in Omegna, at the restaurant Punti di Vista.
Terrace on the lake, a menu for all tastes, and prices that don’t make you feel like Jeff Bezos on antihistamines.
Perfect atmosphere for catching up over a couple of drinks.
Omegna is also the birthplace of Gianni Rodari: if you’re visiting with children, the Parco della Fantasia is well worth a dedicated trip.
Last day: boat to the island and goodbyes in multiple languages
Breakfast at Seme di Faggio (calling it “breakfast” feels like an understatement — it was more like brunch at a farm-to-table agriturismo with a very high opinion of itself, rightly so). We said goodbye to Sara, our host, and brushed up on our basic English with the international guests. Then off — ferry from Pella to the Island of San Giulio: mystical atmosphere, zero stress.
📍 What is the Island of San Giulio?
It’s a small island at the centre of Lake Orta, reachable by ferry from Orta or Pella in just a few minutes. It’s home to the Basilica of San Giulio (4th century) and a still-active Benedictine monastery. The famous “Walk of Silence” runs along the island’s perimeter: 650 metres of contemplative phrases painted on the walls. For ferry times and fares: Navigazione Lago d’Orta.
Back on shore: gelato and aperitivo, because good habits are worth keeping.
The Grand Finale: Alzo, sweet treats, and calendar-worthy views
Final stop: Alzo, which not only sounds like a command but also offers three non-negotiables:
- Osteria del Gallo, with desserts that make you reconsider the concept of “saving some for later”
- A playground–viewpoint, where kids play and you lie in the shade of a little church overlooking the lake
- A view of the island and Miasino that even Instagram stories can’t do justice to
Moral of the story?
If you want to find a little peace, slowness, and humor, it doesn’t take much: a half-packed car, a curious child, a couple of toma sandwiches, and Sara’s number from Seme di Faggio saved in your favorites.
Everything else… can wait.
👉 Check availability and book your Lake Orta weekend →
Want to know what to do in the area before you leave? Read also: → Things to do at Lake Orta
FAQ: what Google (and the AI) will ask anyway
Is Lake Orta suitable for a weekend with young children? Very much so. Short, well-marked trails like the Anello Azzurro di Ameno, playgrounds in Miasino and Alzo, the ferry to the island and a gelateria on practically every corner: the lake is genuinely child-friendly without turning into a theme park. The kids get properly tired (in the good way), the adults actually relax (for once).
When is the best time to visit Lake Orta? Spring and early autumn are the sweet spot: fewer crowds than summer, pleasant temperatures, wisteria and rhododendrons in bloom on the hillsides. Avoid August in Orta San Giulio if the prospect of circling a car park for forty minutes brings you out in hives.
Orta San Giulio or Pella: which is better as a base? Orta is better known, livelier, more photographed. Pella is the authentic alternative: same view of the island, far less chaos, working boat landing. If you’re after genuine rest, Pella wins. And anyway, Seme di Faggio B&B is in Miasino — equidistant from both. Problem solved before it started.
Is Seme di Faggio B&B suitable for families? Yes. The rooms with loft beds are perfect for children (who treat them as a covert exploration mission), breakfast is generous and Miasino’s position means you can reach the village and hiking trails on foot. Sara, the owner, knows the area inside out and gives you tips that TripAdvisor simply doesn’t have.
How much does a weekend at Lake Orta cost? It depends on your choices, but it’s one of the most accessible lakes in northern Italy. Seme di Faggio offers honest prices for the quality provided, local trattorias won’t destroy your budget, and many activities — hiking trails, parks, the island walk — are free or nearly so.
