I needed to disconnect.
Not like, “I’m doing a detox week in Bali to find myself” kind of disconnect. More like, “Let me breathe or I’ll throw myself into the Po River if I open another email that starts with ‘Dear Customer.’”
So, we packed the car—us, a 6-year-old, and a desperate need to do nothing in style—and off we went.
Stop 1: Borgomanero and the peace-giving veal with tuna sauce
Halfway between the office and true relaxation, we stopped in Borgomanero, which already sounds like stone houses and artisan workshops.
We ended up at Trattoria del Ciclista, the kind of place where the wine list is handwritten and the waiter could be your uncle (the one who pours your drink before you even say yes).
Veal with tuna sauce, agnolotti, and done: vacation officially started.
Orta? No thanks. Pella all the way.
We tried swinging by Orta, but it was as packed as an Articolo 31 concert in their prime.
No parking, flip-flops everywhere.
So we made a hard turn toward Pella: quieter, more authentic, and—most importantly—with a gelato shop that saves your nerves and a playground that saves the parents.
Then a quick detour to Ameno (yes, that’s really its name), a village so cute you could play hide-and-seek there without anyone judging you.
Arrival at Seme di Faggio: silence, wood, and lofts for little explorers
Walking into Seme di Faggio is like taking off a pair of tight shoes after a long day.
Cool, clean, and quiet room. A loft that, for a kid, is the rustic version of an adventure park.
And finally: no one knocking, no one replying “Forwarding to the appropriate department.”
Just wood, duvets, and the sense that here, time really decided to take it slow.
Dinner with beer, then to Miasino, where the church steals the show
For dinner, we went to Il Cantuccio, which is technically a brewery but feels like a scene from Trading Places—if you swap the stock market for hops.
Afterward, a post-dinner stroll up to the Church of San Rocco in Miasino.
Spoiler: at night it’s so beautiful it makes you want to convert—just so you can go there every evening.
Trip with sandwiches, trails with QR codes, and kids tired (but Happy)
The next day we decided it was time for real nature—the kind where if you forget mosquito spray, you’ll regret it.
In Ameno, someone had the brilliant idea to put QR codes in the square to download hiking trails.
We, modern but cautious (😏), picked the Turquoise Ring—6 km of soft-core hiking: farms, flowers, streams, horses giving you side-eye, and a toma cheese that tastes like the forest.
Sandwich on a rock, feet in the water, and a child who never once asked “Are we there yet?”
Almost a miracle.
Wisteria, slides, and Omegna with a view
In the afternoon, we hit another playground (Miasino again), complete with blooming wisteria and brand-new equipment.
Then dinner with a friend in Omegna, at the restaurant Punti di Vista.
Terrace on the lake, a menu for all tastes, and prices that don’t make you feel like Jeff Bezos on antihistamines.
Perfect atmosphere for catching up over a couple of drinks.
Last day: boat to the island and goodbyes in multiple languages
Breakfast at Seme di Faggio (calling it just “breakfast” doesn’t do it justice—it was more like brunch at a confident agriturismo).
We said goodbye to Sara, the host, and practiced our basic English with foreign tourists.
Then off on the boat from Pella to the Island of San Giulio: mystical vibe, zero stress.
On the way back: ice-cream and aperitif—because good habits are meant to last.
The Grand Finale: Alzo, sweet treats, and calendar-worthy views
Final stop: Alzo, which not only sounds like a command but also offers three non-negotiables:
- Osteria del Gallo, with desserts that make you reconsider the concept of “saving some for later”
- A playground–viewpoint, where kids play and you lie in the shade of a little church overlooking the lake
- A view of the island and Miasino that even Instagram stories can’t do justice to
Moral of the story?
If you want to find a little peace, slowness, and humor, it doesn’t take much: a half-packed car, a curious child, a couple of toma sandwiches, and Sara’s number from Seme di Faggio saved in your favorites.
Everything else… can wait.
